The players: Piotr Mlotecki (leader), W. Branski, Good. Gardas, W. Klaput, Meters. Malatynski K. Olech (deputy commander), J. Olszewski, Meters. Piatkowski, A. Pietraszek (doctor), M. Rogalski, Z. Rubinoski, Good. Sobolewski, Z. Staszyszyn, An excellent. Strumitto and you may S. Wdowiak.
The first ASCENT Off KANGBACHEN, 1974
The original cluster spanning A great. Gardas, Yards. Malatynski, K. Olech, J. Olszewski, M. Rogalski, An effective. Sobolewski which have Jepa, Sonam and you can twelve porters concerned the latest Ramtang Valley on e lay where the Jugoslav trip got in 1965.
I started to functions preparing Feet towards the head caravan category, carrying out the newest reconnaissance of one’s npper a portion of the area and you can watching this new icefall and you will moraine through which the latest Jugoslavs reached the initial patio off Kangbachen.
The latest icefall, designed within a few accounts is really fractured therefore the snowfall covering it’s surface made difficult the early observation regarding crevasses. This new edges of your own icefall was indeed threatened of the avalanches, one in the course of time might possibly be caused by new seraes throughout the very first patio. meters. casual and you will ultimately causing avalanches of various types. Considering the recce i chosen a safe route from middle of icefall, they becoming a relatively silent area amongst the seracs therefore the snowfields therefore we heading.
Toward 20 April, i pitched the first short-term tent at the top of brand new embankment off the initial terrace (5750 meters.). Two days afterwards i located a road through the moraine hence is actually threatened faster by brick-avalanches compared to the that utilized by the new Jugoslavs. Camp I became depending toward 28 April within 5400 m. regarding icefall but try limited to have fun with when carrying the fresh new lots. Camp II (5850 m.) try a third of your own way-up the initial terrace. To the 6 Will get, we were currently for the a short-term tent at the 6200 m., under a steep face leading to the new noticeable seat between your earliest patio and the Jannu Valley. Which open mountain is actually secure which have fixed ropes. The functions try done in continued accumulated snow and breeze blowing regularly through to the noon. At the beginning of the new day of 11 May, I leftover the fresh tent (within 6200 yards.) having A beneficial. Sobolewski towards the Ft Go camping. I went down quickly – 60 minutes so you’re able to Camp II, 1J times so you’re able to Camp We and also by nine-30 a great.meters. we had been already when you look at the Legs Go camping. The fresh station from icefall no more lived! Fixed ropes and indicators had been below freeze particles – around must have become a significant course off freeze prevents.
We came across all-in Legs Camp. Right here i decided to generate a new path to the first patio from the upper an element of the lateral moraine in which i observed as an alternative smaller shedding rocks now than just 3 months eardier. On p We and lead their products to Camp II. From this date there is certainly zero Camp We however, we went on to hold the prior numeration. We depending Camp III (6350 meters.) toward saddle.
With the p III, i remaining the beds base Camp along with J. Olszewski and you may decided to go to Camp II. http://www.besthookupwebsites.org/escort/murfreesboro The newest station through moraine are realistically designated toward decorated stone-cairns by the S. Wdowiak and you may Sherpa Wangchuck exactly who shown a sizeable visual efficiency in the starting that actually work. The group out-of P. Mlotecki arrived along the same go out so you’re able to Ft Camp. Virtually any team-users are there but new Sirdar that has attended Ghunza.
Following day i reached Camp III and you can came back on night on the tent underneath the saddle, in which the snap was not very piercing. Into sixteen May, a powerful cinch produced the fresh productive step very hard The group of W. Branski move sometime to come across the seat, upcoming originated so you’re able to Legs, after restoring ropes. Overnight i repaired this type of ropes to have proceeded play with, made him or her longer from the on the various other a hundred m. and you can turned-back towards the evening in order to Camp III.